As Moaist strikes loom over the weekend I have luckily managed to change my flight and leave tomorrow for a border town so I can head back to India. Who knows what will happen here, but there are often violent episodes and this country is already fairly unstable, as the constitution still needs to be ratified.
Already people from more rural areas are coming to Kathmandu, so it is best to leave early. Already in Pokhara I experinced a strike and nothing was open and the police and army presence was sizeable.
Thursday 29 April 2010
Wednesday 28 April 2010
The day of complete contrasts
As I walked through the candle lit streets of Kathmandu tonight not even the full moon could light the way. This morning I saw flames in a completely different setting, not helping sight, but flames of funeral pyres along the sacred Bagmarti River at Pashupathinath. Here funerals are conducted for all to see. It was such a utterly strange but equally compelling experience to sit and watch the rituals of this open cremation. The giving of water to the deceased, covering in cloth and powder, the mournful rituals of the close family and then the setting of the body on the logs and starting the fire. It was so weird to watch and I must admit that I couldn't look away.
I then headed to Bodhnath, which has the most incredible stupa in the centre. It is now surrounded by many Tibetan monastaries and devout pilgrims walk clockwise around spinning the prayer wheels. Today was a day of visiting and seeing rituals together with such a strong devout culture.
Tonight I dined with the family of one of the NGO members who I undertook my field trip with. It was so interesting to visit his house, which as always is a simple one room living space for himself, his wife and two daughters. Their generosity was amazing and we even watched some BBC news which was a rare treat - and an even greater treat to hear the Gordon Brown 'bigot' tape, just like a scene from that brilliant political satire show.
I saw a beggar eating from food on the pavement today, which was swarming with flies, I walked past the funeral pyres and felt the flames heat my face, I ate when the wife could only eat when her husband and guest were full, I also did the very Asian thing of being a passanger on a motorbike with both Tej and his four year old daughter and you know what I did next - I stopped off at the bottle shop on my way back and bought the strongest beer I could find! Here ends my day of contrasts in Kathmandu.
I then headed to Bodhnath, which has the most incredible stupa in the centre. It is now surrounded by many Tibetan monastaries and devout pilgrims walk clockwise around spinning the prayer wheels. Today was a day of visiting and seeing rituals together with such a strong devout culture.
Tonight I dined with the family of one of the NGO members who I undertook my field trip with. It was so interesting to visit his house, which as always is a simple one room living space for himself, his wife and two daughters. Their generosity was amazing and we even watched some BBC news which was a rare treat - and an even greater treat to hear the Gordon Brown 'bigot' tape, just like a scene from that brilliant political satire show.
I saw a beggar eating from food on the pavement today, which was swarming with flies, I walked past the funeral pyres and felt the flames heat my face, I ate when the wife could only eat when her husband and guest were full, I also did the very Asian thing of being a passanger on a motorbike with both Tej and his four year old daughter and you know what I did next - I stopped off at the bottle shop on my way back and bought the strongest beer I could find! Here ends my day of contrasts in Kathmandu.
Tuesday 27 April 2010
Off to Chitwan National Park
Another great lesson travelling in Asia is endurance! I Left Pokhara on a hot and uncomfortable local bus travelling
for five and a half hours on an incredible journey past lush rice fields, dusty towns and steep valleys. Venturing there was a risky move as now it is just before monsoon season and the temperature is increasing. Still as always all things are taken into consideration, as it just meant that in the heat of the afternoon we all took a siesta. So three days there were packed with jungle walks, elephant safaris, spotting rhino in the jungle and seeing the elephants at work, transporting grass from inside the jungle.
The second test of endurance came yesterday whilst completing the journey back to Kathmandu. A 164km journey took us 8.5 hours!!!! Granted it was along the spectacular winding road following the river that slices through Nepal, but you then have to then climb up the notorious seven hills to get back into Kathmandu valley. These narrow and steep roads are always littered with accidents and crazy truck drivers
for five and a half hours on an incredible journey past lush rice fields, dusty towns and steep valleys. Venturing there was a risky move as now it is just before monsoon season and the temperature is increasing. Still as always all things are taken into consideration, as it just meant that in the heat of the afternoon we all took a siesta. So three days there were packed with jungle walks, elephant safaris, spotting rhino in the jungle and seeing the elephants at work, transporting grass from inside the jungle.
The second test of endurance came yesterday whilst completing the journey back to Kathmandu. A 164km journey took us 8.5 hours!!!! Granted it was along the spectacular winding road following the river that slices through Nepal, but you then have to then climb up the notorious seven hills to get back into Kathmandu valley. These narrow and steep roads are always littered with accidents and crazy truck drivers
Friday 23 April 2010
Having a rest
Having a mini break in my tavels
Pokhara is the perfect place to kick back and relax. A huge lake, great views, touristy choices of restaurants and I love my balcony. Today there is a strike in town and all the shops are shut, no-one seems quite sure why there is a strike, Maoist distuptions most likely or just general upset or sherpa and porter strikes, who knows in Nepal, where people power and political movements are strong, but as everywhere, the army is even stronger and their base is just round the corner.
My balcony overlooks a building site and I can see into the forever manual construction of the top floor. In the heat of the day cement is mixed and spread thickly over each brick level. One female worker brings her tiny son each afternoon, and he must only be just older than 1. She places him down by the pile of bricks, where he silently sits and plays. How different things are! Yesterday he just looked up at me and burst into tears - poor little thing!
No doubt I will see him again tomorrow, as word on the street is that there is another big strike tomorrow, but after that I am off to Chitwan national park for some safari adventure!
Pokhara is the perfect place to kick back and relax. A huge lake, great views, touristy choices of restaurants and I love my balcony. Today there is a strike in town and all the shops are shut, no-one seems quite sure why there is a strike, Maoist distuptions most likely or just general upset or sherpa and porter strikes, who knows in Nepal, where people power and political movements are strong, but as everywhere, the army is even stronger and their base is just round the corner.
My balcony overlooks a building site and I can see into the forever manual construction of the top floor. In the heat of the day cement is mixed and spread thickly over each brick level. One female worker brings her tiny son each afternoon, and he must only be just older than 1. She places him down by the pile of bricks, where he silently sits and plays. How different things are! Yesterday he just looked up at me and burst into tears - poor little thing!
No doubt I will see him again tomorrow, as word on the street is that there is another big strike tomorrow, but after that I am off to Chitwan national park for some safari adventure!
Thursday 22 April 2010
Another day another power cut.....
Things that I will not take for granted back home:
- electricity
- hot water
- drinkable tap water
- freedom of speech
- lack of overbearing police and army
- recycling
- cleanilness
- great coffee
- ability not to stand out all the time
- orderly queuing
- healthy gut!
These are just a few things that are problematic in Nepal, India and Tibet! But these things add to the chaos and the experience and mark as seperators between developed and developing countries, between democracy and dictatorship, between freedom and injustice and all these things make the world a dfferent place wherever you are.
- electricity
- hot water
- drinkable tap water
- freedom of speech
- lack of overbearing police and army
- recycling
- cleanilness
- great coffee
- ability not to stand out all the time
- orderly queuing
- healthy gut!
These are just a few things that are problematic in Nepal, India and Tibet! But these things add to the chaos and the experience and mark as seperators between developed and developing countries, between democracy and dictatorship, between freedom and injustice and all these things make the world a dfferent place wherever you are.
Wednesday 21 April 2010
Now sit back and relax ........
So Sunday was an organising day and I have now booked all my Indian train trips - major achievement in itself! Monday was spent mostly queuing at the Indian visa office in Kathmandu to gain permission to re-enter india. And Yesterday it took 8 hours to get to Pokhara, as there were vehicle problems littering the winding road. One lorry had just broken down in the middle of the road, a bus had turned on its side, a petrol tanker was having to be towed, a truck and gone into a house and all making for a slow but interesting journey in my non a/c local bus.
Still I am now having a mini break within my break and relaxing by the lakeside and soaking up some lovely sun. Again the changes here are huge from when I was here 16 years ago. Many more hotels, shops and restaurants, but with that comes choice and I joined some fellow travellers last night for some Nepal Ice beers (7%hurrah!) and the most amazing pizza - great choice!
Must dash I am very busy relaxing! Am sitting on my balcony and can see the amazing Annapura mountain range now coming into view from behind the clouds!
Still I am now having a mini break within my break and relaxing by the lakeside and soaking up some lovely sun. Again the changes here are huge from when I was here 16 years ago. Many more hotels, shops and restaurants, but with that comes choice and I joined some fellow travellers last night for some Nepal Ice beers (7%hurrah!) and the most amazing pizza - great choice!
Must dash I am very busy relaxing! Am sitting on my balcony and can see the amazing Annapura mountain range now coming into view from behind the clouds!
Monday 19 April 2010
More queues, more chaos
Had to queue for 4 1/2 hours this morning at the Indian visa centre. Just one small official change has huge effects, as I need special permission to re-enter India, as it is less than two months since I left - and this special permission comes at a cost!!!
Still I am relaxing in a garden restaurant with free wifi access and have just had a treat of a burger for lunch .... Sometimes it's nice to have a break from rice or noodle soup! Must get my strength up to join the queue of hundreds collecting their passports later this afternoon!!!!
Still I am relaxing in a garden restaurant with free wifi access and have just had a treat of a burger for lunch .... Sometimes it's nice to have a break from rice or noodle soup! Must get my strength up to join the queue of hundreds collecting their passports later this afternoon!!!!
Saturday 17 April 2010
Half way there
Half way there
I can't believe that I am already half way through my travels - already I could write a book on all my
adventures. As I have headed back to Kathmandu it makes me appreciate just how incredible this journey is. From the over surveillance and lack of free speech in Tibet you can really see how a nation are fighting to maintain their identity. Just as there is a significant China town in major cities across the world, equally there is a much smaller community of Tibetans who have fled their homeland.
Last night at a local street festival here it was funny to see all the young people out on a Saturday night. The street could of been any where with burger bars and fashion boutiques and girls dressed in mini skirts and lads in jeans.
I was asked yesterday to proof read a speech one if the heads of the NGO I worked with, which next week he will present on the indiginous populations of Nepal to the UN in New York. It made me reflect - are we all trying to be the same? The east wants to be more western and the west more eastern, exploring yoga, alternative medicines from China and India, tantric, meditation and religion. It is always the older generation that uphold the traditions and values and at what point will these be lost in time? That is why travelling is so amazing - to explore all our differences across the world, before Lhasa has a Mcdonalds, before that older generation has gone and gone too is their pride to be different.
I can't believe that I am already half way through my travels - already I could write a book on all my
adventures. As I have headed back to Kathmandu it makes me appreciate just how incredible this journey is. From the over surveillance and lack of free speech in Tibet you can really see how a nation are fighting to maintain their identity. Just as there is a significant China town in major cities across the world, equally there is a much smaller community of Tibetans who have fled their homeland.
Last night at a local street festival here it was funny to see all the young people out on a Saturday night. The street could of been any where with burger bars and fashion boutiques and girls dressed in mini skirts and lads in jeans.
I was asked yesterday to proof read a speech one if the heads of the NGO I worked with, which next week he will present on the indiginous populations of Nepal to the UN in New York. It made me reflect - are we all trying to be the same? The east wants to be more western and the west more eastern, exploring yoga, alternative medicines from China and India, tantric, meditation and religion. It is always the older generation that uphold the traditions and values and at what point will these be lost in time? That is why travelling is so amazing - to explore all our differences across the world, before Lhasa has a Mcdonalds, before that older generation has gone and gone too is their pride to be different.
Long road to Lhasa
Flight booked, travel confirmed and I am fulfilling a life long dream by heading to Lhasa overland on the friendship highway, the highest road in the world!
Join the bus in Kathmandu and we start our journey heading forever higher, leaving at 1300m and after crossing the friendship bridge we have entered China. We have our body temperature checked, a thorough bag search, as we can't take in our Tibetan lonley planet guides ( too many mentions of the Dalai Lama and Chinese occupancy) then we got through. Joining our 4x4 jeep we began the incredibly steep climb, not for the faint hearted sitting 'drop' side. The scenery was stunning and we began a week long adventure by staying in a small village hotel that was so cold we needed two duvets!!!!!
Next day was a travel day on the Chinese well constructed tarmac friendship highway across the erie lunar landscape of the inner himalaya's. Small bunches of houses were scattered across this harsh lanscape. The first pass that we stopped at was at 5,320 and we all felt the effects of this high altitude. I had a thumping Headache and others were sick. Back in the jeep and we all fell asleep, only to be woken up by the driver announcing that we had a photo stop for Everest ..... Just incredible.
Along the 630km drive to lhasa we stoped at xigatse and gyantse, visiting the most amazing monastaries, watched monks chanting and saw the most incredible temples.
The high anticipation of reaching Lhasa was initially spoilt by the high density of modern
Chinese shops and apartments. Luckily all that was left behind when we reached the Tibetan area and stayed for three nights in a wonderful 300 year old guest house, formally a temple and more recently, the home of the tutor to the dalai lama. Sadly there was an enormous police and army presence here - there were even surveillance cameras in the monastaries. So many tales to tell of this trip, but it was the most incredible week of adventure and a huge challenge with dealing with high altitude on a daily basis. But Tibet as every where else is full of the most amazing people and I was humbled by their devotion and unwavering sense of identity and being able to live in the conditions that they do (both politically and geographically)!!!
Join the bus in Kathmandu and we start our journey heading forever higher, leaving at 1300m and after crossing the friendship bridge we have entered China. We have our body temperature checked, a thorough bag search, as we can't take in our Tibetan lonley planet guides ( too many mentions of the Dalai Lama and Chinese occupancy) then we got through. Joining our 4x4 jeep we began the incredibly steep climb, not for the faint hearted sitting 'drop' side. The scenery was stunning and we began a week long adventure by staying in a small village hotel that was so cold we needed two duvets!!!!!
Next day was a travel day on the Chinese well constructed tarmac friendship highway across the erie lunar landscape of the inner himalaya's. Small bunches of houses were scattered across this harsh lanscape. The first pass that we stopped at was at 5,320 and we all felt the effects of this high altitude. I had a thumping Headache and others were sick. Back in the jeep and we all fell asleep, only to be woken up by the driver announcing that we had a photo stop for Everest ..... Just incredible.
Along the 630km drive to lhasa we stoped at xigatse and gyantse, visiting the most amazing monastaries, watched monks chanting and saw the most incredible temples.
The high anticipation of reaching Lhasa was initially spoilt by the high density of modern
Chinese shops and apartments. Luckily all that was left behind when we reached the Tibetan area and stayed for three nights in a wonderful 300 year old guest house, formally a temple and more recently, the home of the tutor to the dalai lama. Sadly there was an enormous police and army presence here - there were even surveillance cameras in the monastaries. So many tales to tell of this trip, but it was the most incredible week of adventure and a huge challenge with dealing with high altitude on a daily basis. But Tibet as every where else is full of the most amazing people and I was humbled by their devotion and unwavering sense of identity and being able to live in the conditions that they do (both politically and geographically)!!!
Friday 9 April 2010
Hurrah off to Lhasa tomorrow
Begin the trip of a life time tomorrow and start an 8 day trip overland to Lhasa. Will be taking the highest road in the world!!!!
Only had confirmation from the Chinese embassy at 7.30 tonight, so it has been a busy evening of sorting out getting the lens of my nikon fixed, renting a sleeping bag and buying lots of water.
Will sign back in when I return from Tibet next Saturday :)
Only had confirmation from the Chinese embassy at 7.30 tonight, so it has been a busy evening of sorting out getting the lens of my nikon fixed, renting a sleeping bag and buying lots of water.
Will sign back in when I return from Tibet next Saturday :)
Thursday 8 April 2010
Have a little patience ....
Patience is a virtue.....
I always think that travelling reminds you of three important things:
Patience, your abilty to really challenge yourself and the reminder that the world is overwhelmingly full of the most amazing people. The hardest reminder of the three is of course patience.
When will this local bus leave? When it is so crammed with people it might burst.
when will the young beggar take his head of my foot desperately needing money? When he sees someone who looks more likely to give.
When will this traffic jam end, as I have been sitting on a local bus for almost five hours with little progress? When the lorry that has crashed way ahead is cleared.
When will I get served at this post office? When I manage to stop everyone pushing in front of me.
Will I be able to start my Lhasa trip tomorrow? Only if my visa comes back from the Chinese embassy today.
Where is my breakfast of poached eggs, porridge and lime tea? Oh must dash the waiter is bringing a tray over to my table now :)
I always think that travelling reminds you of three important things:
Patience, your abilty to really challenge yourself and the reminder that the world is overwhelmingly full of the most amazing people. The hardest reminder of the three is of course patience.
When will this local bus leave? When it is so crammed with people it might burst.
when will the young beggar take his head of my foot desperately needing money? When he sees someone who looks more likely to give.
When will this traffic jam end, as I have been sitting on a local bus for almost five hours with little progress? When the lorry that has crashed way ahead is cleared.
When will I get served at this post office? When I manage to stop everyone pushing in front of me.
Will I be able to start my Lhasa trip tomorrow? Only if my visa comes back from the Chinese embassy today.
Where is my breakfast of poached eggs, porridge and lime tea? Oh must dash the waiter is bringing a tray over to my table now :)
All this before breakfast!!!!!
After completing some very interesting work on the receipt of pensions in Nepal and the social impact of financially empowering the older generation, I got back to being a tourist for the first time this week.
I took the only cable car in Nepal up 1300m to an amazing temple and watched a goat being sacrificed! Don't worry there are no photos attached. It's so interesting to be somewhere that is so culturally different and have these opportunities.
Tomorrow I want to do some wondering around Kathmandu, but I have just had a great steak dinner with the guys from the NGO here and had my first glass of wine in almost a month and it tasted so good.
I took the only cable car in Nepal up 1300m to an amazing temple and watched a goat being sacrificed! Don't worry there are no photos attached. It's so interesting to be somewhere that is so culturally different and have these opportunities.
Tomorrow I want to do some wondering around Kathmandu, but I have just had a great steak dinner with the guys from the NGO here and had my first glass of wine in almost a month and it tasted so good.
Sunday 4 April 2010
Hurrah it's cooler in Kathmandu
Bid a sad farewell to Emma at Delhi airport and after a short flight I arrive in katmandu. Last here 16 years ago it now feels to be bursting at the seems. Have sucessfully made contact with the local NGO and have an exciting and challenging week ahead.
My room has a great view of the famed monkey temple and this evening before sunset I walked over to the base of the temple and it was full of Tibetan monks and devout worshippers spinning the many prayer wheels - it is just such an amazing and magical place.
My room has a great view of the famed monkey temple and this evening before sunset I walked over to the base of the temple and it was full of Tibetan monks and devout worshippers spinning the many prayer wheels - it is just such an amazing and magical place.
Friday 2 April 2010
Last day in India
Survived the overnight train from Jodhpur to Delhi. In a country that at the moment is so hot, our carriage felt like a freezer!!! There were a few government VIP's in our carriage also, so the armed guards on the train added some reassurance to our travels.
Have spent a dusty day walking around Delhi old town and as always was in awe of life unfolding before our eyes. An 'electrician' was standing in a van roof leaning up into the multitude of falling electricity wires on a pylon to fix a fault. In the same street there were ox drawn carriages, rickshaws, beeping cars and people carrying more on their heads than I could in my arms.
It will be sad to leave India (but I will return soon). We have met so many wonderful people, from the student teacher on the train who wanted to be a writer to try to highlight the social injustices to women in India, to the lady who shared her lunch with us on the train as we travelled north to a hill station, so many people who have smiled and made us feel welcome, whether we were visiting a temple, lost on the street or ambling along a train platform. India has been amazing, but like most things in life you get out what you put in!
Have spent a dusty day walking around Delhi old town and as always was in awe of life unfolding before our eyes. An 'electrician' was standing in a van roof leaning up into the multitude of falling electricity wires on a pylon to fix a fault. In the same street there were ox drawn carriages, rickshaws, beeping cars and people carrying more on their heads than I could in my arms.
It will be sad to leave India (but I will return soon). We have met so many wonderful people, from the student teacher on the train who wanted to be a writer to try to highlight the social injustices to women in India, to the lady who shared her lunch with us on the train as we travelled north to a hill station, so many people who have smiled and made us feel welcome, whether we were visiting a temple, lost on the street or ambling along a train platform. India has been amazing, but like most things in life you get out what you put in!
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