Where's my glasses?

How often do you check your bag before you go - camera, wallet, shopping bag and phone - check. However it's unexpected when you loose things along the way, especially when a monkey steals your glasses! Vrindavan is full of monkeys, living mostly in harmony with people. They have however learnt to take things, knowing that they will get fed as a reward for returning them. I was walking along the dusty road by the Yumana River when I felt a heavy clunk on the head and quickly realised that a monkey had swung over and stolen my glasses. I was panic stricken and screamed for help.... and a couple came to my rescue. Luckily a fruit seller was approaching and they got two tomatoes and another guy threw them at the monkey, who thankfully abandoned my glasses and made off with the fruit. What a shock, and what probably only took five minutes felt like such along time .... and the relief afterwards was huge. I'd only spent 20 rupees to get my precious glasses back and they firmly stayed in my bag until I left town!!

Come to the wedding plese

It's definitely wedding season, the most auspicious time to tie the knot is upon us. The streets are full of processions, bands, grooms on horses and drummers. Even in Samdari where Kamlesh was getting married we ended up dancing in someone else's parade! When we stayed by the bird park at Bharatupur our hotel along with all the others long the main highway were all hosting weddings. So after our mega 25km cycle ride round the bird park, when we get back we're invited to the wedding, as it's the sister of one of the guys that works at our hotel. So we spruce up and head to the wedding, escorted by the brides brother. Rapidly we are introduced to all the family (grandma loves touching my hair!), greet a very surprised groom, who is entering the wedding venue on a horse and get taken round the venue. Hilariously when the couple eventually get on the stage to perch on the marriage throne, the brother insists we gallop up the stairs and have our photo taken with the happy couple ... however we are the first to get photos taken, before family and friends and the bemused look of the new bride was priceless!

You can't disinfect India

It's great to see so many Asian tourists travelling in India, and I was amused to sit opposite a couple of Thai girls on the train to Agra and as they got on the train they sprayed their seats, either to disinfect them, or make them smell nice I'm not sure. However it is impossible to disinfect India, and this is one of the biggest things you have to get used to. The filthy streets, cows wandering around, working camels and water buffalo with carts, donkeys, dogs, open sewers, men pissing on every street corner. It's not for the faint hearted. But it is wonderful, colourful chaos, full of adventure and challenge!

Can you see the Taj Mahal?

The pollution across India is unbelievable. As we got closer to Agra the smog hung low in the sky like a dense fog. It was so sad to see the farmers having to grow essential crops in this situation. You can always see people burning piles of plastic, which is strewn across India, in the rivers, ponds, streets and fields. By the time we headed to the fort to gaze at the Taj Mahal it was lost in the smog. There needs to be a huge education here, as plastic is strangling every village, town and city. It is such a throw away society on one hand. Bottles, bags and wrappers are easily thrown on floor without hesitation as there are no bins. Cows merrily chew the bags, which makes them ill. All the stations are making an enormous effort to clean up their act, so it's a good start!

Dancing on the rooftop

A simple evening walk out to find a tailor turned into an unexpected fun night out. We had been gifted some material from Bandu's dad at the wedding along with 100 rupees, so we wanted to make some pj's etc. We soon found some auto drivers who knew some tailors and we were rapidly all measured and ready for our bespoke clothing to be made. We then took up their offer and were soon dancing at a rooftop club, enjoying a hilariously unexpected night out. It's so interesting to suddenly mix with drinkers and dancers, given the strict vegetarian and alcohol free existence of the majority. When we were with Kamlesh's family we were vegetarian and tea total. Imagde - it was a sober wedding!

Money for photo

Throughout India there are so many incredible photo opportunities, but at tourist attractions they come at a price. I will never pay for a photo, as it sets an incredibly bad president. In Jaipur's city palace the guards are dressed up in all their splendour and cheekily invite you to pose with them and then of course ask for money. They will be racking in the cash, as hoard's of tourists on coach trips know no better than to give. And this then makes them more greedy. Click and dash is my motto in this situation!

Can you see the tiger yet?

When you head to one of the best tiger reserves in India it's going to go one of two ways. Utter jubilation at successfully spotting a tiger in the wild, or utter disappointment at missing out on this sadly decreasing opportunity. I didn't spot a tiger, but did see fresh prints of the mother, who was off hunting for food for herself and her cubs. Then after the morning safari I headed off to the fort, also in the tiger park, and was mystified as to why so many Indians were walking along the road when surely they could be mauled by a tiger!

Relaxing lassi break In Pushkar

Pushkar Lake is one of the holiest in India and consequently Hindu's should visit there once in their lives. I visited here over twenty years ago, on my first trip to India and it's changed a lot. Touristy stalls now line the street by the sacred lake and Israeli tourists have taken over the town. But magical rooftop restaurants offer views of the bathing pilgrims and shade from the searing sun. On offer too are magic lassi's to aid your relaxing afternoons watching the world go by.

I'm a playboy

The more you travel the more you realise that it's not just about the things you see, it's about the people that you meet. Got chatting to the attendant on the ac carriages of the train, he travels from Jaisilmeer across Rajasthan day in, day out. What a crazy life, little time for family and friends yet you're surrounded by people all the time. These little insights into people's lives are fascinating and are always the highlights of my travels. No wonder when I asked if he was married he replied that he was a playboy!

Your card is declined due to suspicious activity

For years I've always used travellers cheques. Great for travellers, as if they go missing you are guaranteed replacements. I've previously only needed this once, when a bunch of cheques were stolen from my room when travelling through Java. So before I left I loaded cash onto my card at Heathrow, stating I was travelling to India - only to find that on using it in Delhi it was blocked! Thank goodness I had another credit card. Then came a painful game of ringing tag, as I had to arrange for master card to call my hotel to sort this out. Now I can get rupees at ATM - hurrah!!! So much for suspicious activity when I told them where I was going...

I've never been so excited to head to a kebab shop

In most towns and cities across India there are so many religious restrictions on food and alcohol. We've been veggie since leaving Delhi and tea total and absolutely loving it. The home cooked food at Kamlesh's was fabulous, but the time has come to search out a great nonveg option and trip advisor recommends a kebab shop in a dusty alley by the old Jodhpur cinema. So given the location, we head to the movies on a Saturday afternoon and sit in a beautiful old cinema devouring our masala crisps and ice cream. We then head out to have the most incredible kebab and are thoroughly cared for by the owner, who takes time to make sure that we order the most delicious things!

And the bride is welcomed into their house

Being so close to the wedding and getting to understand more about the traditions surrounding it has been so fascinating. Each bride leaves their family home to start a new life living with her husbands family. On the couples departure from the wedding, before embarking on the four hour trip back to Samdari Bhanu, the new bride, wails at leaving her family. This feels too personal to watch and so I sit back in the car. Little does she know how fortunate she is to be marrying in to such a fantastic family. We were then so privileged to be there at the family house the following day when they undertook the welcoming ceremony and the new extended family life begins as we depart - perfect timing!