You don’t need to inform the tourist police

When you check into a hotel in India, immediately you need to give over your passport for them to make a copy of, and often fill out a huge tome of travel info. This does not seem to be the case in Sri Lanka. 

We checked in later than anticipated at our hotel in Ella, after our scenic train was quite delayed en route. The guy had a a list on his phone and then we said room for Sarah and room for Emma. After a great nights sleep I checked my WhatsApp and had a message from the owner saying he had reported me to the transport police as I had made a fraudulent booking and not turned up. Imagine his surprise when I replied that I was in room no 2. 

Turns out there was an issue with booking.com and his list showed 2 rooms for Emma and one for me, so he assumed I never turned up. Panic over and no need for him to inform the tourist police!

Be careful, the monkeys might come in

 I was told to be careful as monkeys often decended onto my balcony at my hotel in Kandy. It was situated a few minutes walk from the beautiful central lake and opposite was a huge hill densely covered by trees and palms. 

I was careful not to leave anything out but twice when I was getting ready in the morning a group of monkeys descended and came up to the bedroom window to peer in. They jumped around, pulled at the window bars and then scampered onto the roof.  

Petrol station explosion

 You get very in tune with your body when you travel. Are you drinking enough water, eating enough fruit? And there is always an Indian explosion when you have a panicked rush to the bathroom. 

I was in a taxi and asked to stop at the next petrol station. Feeling calm that one was in sight, I was alarmed when we just drove past. We stopped at the next one, which was on the opposite side of the road and I ran to the bathroom and exploded! Let’s not go into detail but I was completely empty - who needs colonic irrigation in India! 

We then carried on and our driver drove on the wrong side of the road on the inside lane for what felt was far too long. Terrifying India. 

Find the ring

 When the bride first enters the house she is moving into there are a number of tests she must complete, after rages small ceremonies. 

One is to unwind cotton wall places on each other, as this represents working together as a team, sorting out challenges. 

The game to decide on who was going to be the boss in the relationship was next. Regardless of the outcome my money was in Suman! A large bowl was filled with milk and nuts and fruits and a ring was dropped in it. Suman could search with both hands and Gourav only one and they ended up in a tie of 3 all and the Gourav won. Think you’re going to be the boss? Think again. 

What a time for a power cut

 Indian wedding are amazing, so much tradition, so many different ceremonies and so much colour. 

As the browse and groom entered the reception hall, the production was on another level. Men ran in front of them setting off the dry ice, 6 photographers were capturing every monument and fireworks went off as they danced. A truly amazing spectacle and the. There was a power cut. Luckily only for a few seconds but everyone gasped in hope for a quick remedy. 

This is the man’s bus

 After the reception and the amazing dancing in front of Gourav on his horse, we had some time the next morning and then we were all ushered on a bus to go to the home town of the bride. We set off and were chatting and then we realised that we were on the man’s bus. Rows of guys in their wedding Jodhpuri jackets and multi coloured turbans. And me and Em! Too late to swap and after we got there all the women were worried that we had missed the bus! 

Help us dress in our sari’s

 I don’t often ask for help, but when I do it’s really needed. The pressure is on for us to fit in and look good and we at big a sari for the groom’s reception was a must. Luckily my 300 rupee saris from Jodhpur was well received, as the colour was fab. I did have some trousers made in the same hot pink colour but they were rushed and didn’t fit, so I had to wear my craghopper travel trousers, which sturdley held up my tucked in sari. 

Wonderful Suman, the neighbour who I have met many times before came to our rescue and dressed us both and it was wonderful to be met with so much positive feedback on our outfits as we entered the reception. I always try my best and it definitely worked here! 

Oh no that’s not a hug

 We needed three outfits for the wedding. A sari definitely for the important grooms reception and his late night parade through town on a horse and us dancing to the crazy loud music .

I got a beautiful dark pink sari in the market at Jodhpur and it cost me £4. Much to the amusement of everyone around the woman puts the sari on me and I ask a nearby group of women if pink is ok to wear to a wedding. The older lady says yes, but more preferable if I buy the dress in a fancier shape. I told her as I was only going to wear it once that would not be necessary. 

So in Samdari I need to buy two long tops, so as there is an insufficient selection I get two made up. Buying a navy with gold and another pink with gold, I head to the old next door neighbours of Julie’s who is a tailor. 

Once we have gone through the required style and are still greeting each other I hug her back as she leans in, but it’s not a hug, she’s measuring my waist!

There’s a man

 It feels quite rare in India when women are given priority. But at the far side of Mehrangarh fort there is a beautiful temple and the easy path along the top of the fort is for women only (and disabled people according to the sign). Men have to walk back and down the stairs. The views from the top of walk way are fabulous, overlooking the old blue city of Jodhpur. 

On returning from the temple two older western men passed us on our walk way. We laughed and as we were chatting to a local student, we noted the presence of the men but she laughed and said they are fine as they are elderly. 

No need for an alarm

 When I’m at home I’ve no need for an alarm, the seagulls fulfil that function. 

Here in Jodhpur, whilst getting to grips with my jet lag, my wake up call is the Islamic call to prayer. Then the honk of auto rickshaw horns and barking dogs. Much more interesting than the beep of an alarm. 

I’ve never heard of where you are going

 When I was checking my in to my flight to Jodhpur via Mumbai from Heathrow, the check in assistant said that she had never heard of where I was going. 

I’ve been travelling in India for 30 years and as it is such a huge country, the list of destinations is so vast. She was from Goa, so I said she enjoyed the beach too much and need to head to Rajasthan. 

My list of more destinations to visit here is still long, but it’s also great to revisit places in different seasons to have a completely different experience. 

It’s an iPhone 16

 As a traveller in India I can never blend in, always standing out and always trying to fit in. 

 I got an autorickshaw today to take me on a more real cultural tour of Jodhpur. From the stone quarries, to the sari drying, local chai and food stops it was nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. 

At the chai stall I asked the guy if I could take a picture of him pouring the tea, as it is such an art form. On getting out my phone he shouted “it’s an iPhone 16”. I am so conscious that my new phone is worth an average annual wage here, the extremes are vast.  

Snow patrol

 Whilst I am packing for temperatures of 32 in Sri Lanka, the outside temperature is zero degrees. My best laid plans of doing what I normally do and drive to Winchester to catch up with a friend and then take the coach to Heathrow has been scuppered, so I need to let the train take the strain. I just didn’t want to be stuck on icy roads on the 4 hour drive up country. Well I’m almost out of Cornwall, enjoying the warmth of the train and there’s no snow in sight. Still better be safe than sorry! I’ve checked in online and my holiday has begun. 

For so many years, living so near Heathrow, I just got a taxi. Now I’m almost 400 miles away, so it’s a bit more of a journey! 

Passport, visa, camera

 It’s a week before I head off to India. My rucksack is out and slowly getting filled. In absolute contrast to our cold dark winter weather, I’m packing for the heat and a wedding! Back to work tomorrow to start my prep for all the things I need to get done before I depart. 

I do love the organising of adventures, Sri Lankan train tickets purchased, as they become available 30 days before departure. All the hotels were booked in August and the travel itinerary based on a suggested route from the trusted lonely planet guide.