Which fish would you like to eat?

Last night in Nagasaki we decided to have a big Saturday night out.  Despite the rain we took a trip up to the top of the mountain to see the hazy night view of the sprawling city. Then on the recommendation of one of the hotel staff we headed into the entertainment district to an amazing fish restaurant. Here we were advised to eat the speciality of raw fish. The one we chose was then fished out from the tank in the restaurant and taken into the kitchen. It was then sent over on a dish with noodles with half of the flesh taken off for us to eat. What we didn't realise was that the fish was STILL ALIVE!!! It had a skewer under its head and out by its tail and I was tucking into the meat when I saw its head move!! The waiter came over and explained that yes it was still alive ..... 

Then we headed to the next door karaoke bar and ended up singing karaoke in our own booth for two hours.  You can understand the appeal,  as people have such small apartments they can come here and make so much noise. 

Then we headed to a tiny bar for one last cheeky beer and got chatting to a lad who had lived in Exeter as a student and he also loved fish and chips - well at least our fish is dead! 

Try this it's tuna

It seems that wherever we eat there's always an adventure.  Last night we popped into a small restaurant for a quick beer on the way to our restaurant and as we sat around the cooking station we were soon joined by three Japanese whose were also keen for a beer. Soon the restaurant was full of laughter, with one of the women declaring that she loved fish and chips, and there was a lot of 'cheers', as we had another beer.  As always the generosity of our new friends was slightly overwhelming, as we were offered tastings of their food, and the try this it's just fish dish came ariund and it turned out to be what tasted like putrid fish, so lucky I could only pick up a small piece with my chopsticks and they all laughed, knowing what my reaction wold be!!!

You never know what is hidden behind the cloth signs and the intriguing doorways of the restaurants and bars. With all this eating out we have never been disappointed with anywhere we have been to. We then headed to the old district in town and found the most amazing little restaurant.  Similar to the Golden-Gai in Tokyo, where the bars are tiny, here we sat at the counter, with only four bar stools available and we had the undivided attention of the owner. We ordered tuna carspaccio, which was Devine and pork cutlets for main - amazing. As always when communication got tough, a smart app on the owners phone enabled us to talk and agent an instant translation.  

And this tram goes to the A Bomb site

Travelling in Japan is so easy - queuing is orderly, the trains leave on time and even the most complicated metro, as in Tokyo is easy to navigate.  Travelling on the bulkier train is a real highlight, as it effortlessly speeds through the countryside and towns.  Eater four train journeys we then find ourselves in Hiroshima.  Here there is such a devastating history  that you have to go to the Atomic Bomb site and the memorial museum.  It's a harrowing experience, but one that also leaves you with hope, the spirit of human endurance.  Here a whole city was destroyed and hundreds of thousands of civilians were killed either immediately or suffered slow deaths in the following years.  One of the last moving things to see at the museum was a watch that has stopped at 8.15 on the 6th August 1945. There is also a display of all the letters that the Mayor of Hiroshima has written to presidents and prime ministers across the globe after having undertaken nuclear tests. Letters to America,the UK, India etc asking to cease all nuclear armament as Japan is the only country to have had an atomic bomb used in war time and the effects were devastating. 

Nowadays Hiroshima is a vibrant city by the sea, it has amazing restaurants, bars and museums and so a visit here brings unexpected delights. We headed to a fish bar to have the local speciality of oysters, washed down with beer then headed to the famed food court were over 25 counters all serve the same fried fare, which was delicious.  a quick highball in a jazz bar ended the day off well, as we headed back to the bunk beds in our hostel!!!!

And the monk asked if we wanted beer or sake with our meal

Staying in one of the most spiritual places in Japan was a must, so a trip to koyasan was definitely on the agenda.  The train ride up the mountain was so beautiful, as it weaves its way  up the mountain to reach the funicular cable car to get us to the top of the mountain.  Here we sat and ascended the steep final part of our journey to the top of the mountain.  Here pilgrims come from all over Japan to visit the sacred monasteries and the thousand year old cemetery and we were staying the night at one of the most sacred monasteries, where at dawn they performed fire meditation.  We had a ryokan style room with futon beds and a table to sit up at and have Japanese tea - and the champagne sake that we had sneaked up from Kyoto! Really shouldn't have worried about alcohol,  as when the monk came in to tell us what time dinner was he also asked if we wanted beer and sake, so we ordered both!!!! 

The cemetery was amazing with over 200,000 plots filled over the last 1,000 years.  There were so many statues that were now dressed, honouring the spirits of deceased children, and major companies also had their own plots throughout the cemetery.  We were lucky enough to see a group of priests pray around the area, which really added to the spiritual experience.  

The prayers at dawn in the monastery were incredible, spell binding and calming. Around a dozen monks gathered in the inner temple, with just candle light and lanterns to light the temple.  Their chanting and voices were amazing and we were able to join in the ceremony by offering tea and incense.  Just amazing.  Then we had coffee with two of the monks, to learn more about their stand of Buddhism from china and about the temple itself. A truly amazing experience. 

It's Asia, but not as you know it!

Over the last few years all my travels have been in Asia; Myanmar, India, Nepal and Tibet have all been amazing travel destinations, with such rich culture and spirituality, but with the trappings of the developing world. Travel, bartering, negotiating and eating - the pure basics of being are always trying, confusing and time consuming and often frustrating.  Here in Japan you have the richness of tradition, culture, spirituality and difference, without any of the trials and tribulations of its Asians neighbours.  Here there is order amongst the millions, there's queuing, there's heated toilet seats, there's signs, pictures on menus and a quiet calm.  It's amazing. 

Japan has taken all the good things from the west and adapted them to their own end.  As you wonder around, you're largely ignored, it's so interesting to observe that you are not actually being observed.  You cannot fit in, but you do not stand out.  You are left alone, but when you are welcomed in, it is overwhelming.  So far we still haven't bought a single sake, every one we have drunk has been a gift. We have tried so many of dishes of our fellow diners, we have had meals brought for us and we have shared laughs and stories with so many people along the way. It has been a real eye opener into an incredible society and one that on may levels I truly admire (and that's not just for the heated toilet seats!). 

Make way for the Geisha's

It has always been a dream to go to Kyoto and to walk around the Gion district in search of the illusive Geisha's. Never did I think firstly I'd go to Japan, nor once here be able to see a geisha!! Well all my dreams came true today. Gion is one of the oldest districts in Kyoto, small streets are lined with old tea houses, which many now are exclusive restaurants for geisha entertaining. Taxi's with uniformed drivers and white gloves drive the wealthy business men here to be entertained and drive the geisha's out to their private meetings. 

 As dusk falls, the geisha's scuttle down the alley way from their house and the police guard their safe passage through the alley ways. It was incredible to see them so closely and make way for them as they headed out to their booked meetings in the restaurants across the area. Some were in such a rush they practically ran, with one loosing her shoe, and we even saw one with all her hair pined back but her immaculate hair piece was missing!!! Their kimono's were exquisite and their make up was so beautiful, with the white finishing just below the hair line, and scooped at the back. And for once I was speechless!!!
On a weird aside the toilet in our hotel automatically makes a flushing sound when you use it, to mask any sounds you might make!!!!

Can we have a volunteer please

This region is famous for a beef, karicuco (mechanical puppets) and ancient floats, so we made sure that we experienced all three. As luck would have it, we were in town the first morning of the spring two day festival, where huge floats are paraded through town to mark spring. Thousands of people descend on the region to catch a glimpse of these amazing floats being taken through town, and as expected it was all done in an orderly fashion. Roads were shut off and the crowds politely gathered to watch the floats being pushed and pulled through town. With mechanical puppets and people riding on the tops of the floats they made an incredible sight, and we were so lucky to see this, as it only happens four days each year. 

We ate a lot of the famed Hida beef, in noodles soups and grilled on the BBQ,  washed down with cool draught beer.  It was real melt on your mouth meat and understandably a wonderful delicacy. 

So to the third, the puppets. They have been a local tradition for over five hundred years. We headed to an amazing show that showcased all the puppets, from one that walked up steps, to one that was an acrobat! At one point a seated puppet was waiting to write and the curator asked for a volunteer and rachel offered me - so I had to stand by the puppet and it wrote a sign out, which was given to me once the paint dried. Never a dull moment!