The invisible traveller

 In my head when I’m travelling, I’m still in my mid 20s. My rucksack now has wheels for ease, but I still bound around with relentless enthusiasm to discover new places in a new things.

The hilarious reality is that now and a middle-aged woman sitting at the back of the bus, not jostling in the centre with the other young travellers anymore, who look at me like their mum has just come on holiday. 

Really guys you know idea  - I’ve been doing this for decades and will continue to do so, however now it’s just at a slightly slower pace. My arch supports in my shoes are much needed and I’m embracing the gentrification of the High Street here and nipping into airconditioned coffee shops for a well earned break from the 32 degree humid heat that supposed to be winter.

Street food

 Is it becomes just as important in Thailand what you see, where your destination is but more importantly, what are you going to eat when you get there. 

There is a mind-boggling array of street food with endless choices to be made on every level. I must admit my stomach was slightly out of practice from eating a continuous array of hot, spicy delicacies, but it has been an absolute highlight to just contemplate every morning what different food can I choose today?

And I’ve had the greatest pleasure of trying these different tastes with my friends who have been wonderful culinary guides. 

It’s absolutely overwhelming to arrive at an enormous street food night market and just decide what you want when the choice is so huge, so if I’m with my friends the fabulous thing is to do is choose a dish take a table and just share. 

The Risky Market

 I’ve seen pictures of the risky market on the outskirts of Bangkok, and decide it was a destination that had to be visited. There’s market stalls and shops fronts on both sides of the tiny gauged railway track and four times a day a train comes through and all of the canopies have to be brought in and all of the goods wheeled in or kept at a low level so that the train just goes over them. 

Here the risk is quite surprising as you all jostle to get a good view and a good picture of the oncoming train and then it becomes surprisingly apparent how snug the fit is between the sides of the buildings and the width of the train. I’m not proud to say I had slightly push a tiny child so that I could shelter on a a disused shop table, whilst the train trundled through. Don’t be alarmed, the tiny child was already on the table and I was keen to make room for me! 

Getting around Bangkok

 My lonely planet guide book to Bangkok, has a tuk tuk on the cover and of course this was the first mode of transport I wanted to take. It just feels so exotic and yet absolutely completely terrifying to be clinging on to the tuk tuk as it at travels at breakneck speed wending its way through the chaotic traffic, as if it could never put on its break. 

In absolute contrast, you then have the cool and calm skytrain, looking down on the hectic busy streets, as you travel in the most air-conditioned carriage to your next destination. On each block of seats, there is one special chair with a number of images on it to show who it’s reserved for. So number one, a monk an elderly person, unless abled person or a pregnant lady or in my case a sweaty Farang who just needed to sit down. 

Getting the bus was fun and at least I was with my fantastic local Bangkok friend Ou to guide me through and lastly, there is the wonderful Metro system, taking us deep underground under the streets of Bangkok. 

Didn’t have time to take a motorbike taxi, I’ll save that for next time but above all I do love a crazy tuk tuk ride!!! 

Finally someone helps me with my rucksack

 I love the nonchalance of tuk tuk  drivers, hotel, staff, taxi drivers, who beckon me to follow them without lifting a finger to help. Perhaps I have just become a spoiled traveller as my experience in India is that people really want to help and of course people really want to tip. And so I’m now three weeks into my journey and last getting off the train in the early morning a tuk tuk driver helped me with my bag after we had  negotiated the price, such a small gesture, such a relief as I followed him through the chaos of Hualumpong train station.

No drink on board

 I was hoping to sneak a cheeky beer on board with my night train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok. Perhaps the trolley would miraculously wend its way through the different carriages, selling all sorts of snacks and drinks, but no. 

We had a free bottle of water and I was lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the train as we made our way down south. 

100% sweet

 Everything here is so sweet, the coffee, tea, desserts, even som tum salad! 

If there’s any opportunity I do ask to dial down the sugar,  as it really doesn’t fit with my non-sweet tooth. And years ago, you would struggle with getting a good cup of coffee, but now it seems there is a fabulous boutique coffee shop on every street corner. The other day a coffee shop had a percentage line diagram of how much sugar you wanted and the base is obviously 100% very sugary. I plumbed for 50% sugar and they did go as low as 25% catering for all sweet tooth tastes, as they don’t believe you’d ever want no sugar at all! 

I own the coffee shop

 As tourist numbers rise slowly it great to be travelling again. As Thailand is so reliant on tourism within its economy it was hot so hard during lockdown. The van I got to take me to Bea’s house from the bus station was having problems with its battery etc and we must have been such a hilarious sight as me and a couple of old guys were pushing the songthew in the bus station to start it! Our efforts were in vain and it needed a jump start to bring it to life! The driver said it hadn’t got any use during lockdown

It’s wonderful to meet up with friends and be tourists with them. Getting local knowledge and be the recipient of their fab day trip planning is a breeze!. We were in need of an iced coffee in the heat of the day and popped it to one by the university. I was chatting to one of the staff who was telling me that she had completed her Marketing Masters in Leeds and was interested to hear about my travels. We talked about her time in Leeds and I joked about why she was now working in a coffee shop, and her reply was I own it! I completed her on her slogan of ‘it’s a brewtiful day! 

10 rules are enough, 227 are too many

 Couldn’t resist the monk chat sign at the temple in Chaing Mai saying don’t just look come and take part, so we did. It’s a great opportunity to have access to the knowledge, the wisdom, the wit of a monk, and gives them a great opportunity to practice their English, and ability to communicate on demand. 

We found a super chatty monk, and the minute he realised upon our introduction, that Bea was a Thai living and working in London, his eyes lit up.  He requested to me that they talk in Thai and proceeded to quiz be on her journey of becoming a British citizen.  

Chatty monk loves Harry Potter wants to live abroad and now doesn’t want to continue from being a novice monk who lives there, lives by 10 rolls to becoming a fully fledged monk as they live their lives by 227. 

It must be amazing for him as the world turns up at his table to chat, giving him access to so many people, cultures and attitudes. Now it has just given him wanderlust, which I hope can be fulfilled! 

I’m so dizzy

 I’m so dizzy, my head is spinning like a whirlpool! My journey southbound has begun and I’ve completed the first leg from Mae Hong Son back to Chiang Mai. Crikey those roads are a thrill a minute, but the scenery is spectacular. 

There’s always an air of mystery on a long bus trip, and you have to plan carefully. How many tiny sips of water can to take before you are desperate for a wee? When will we stop? Surely the driver is driving crazy fast? So many questions! 

Our driver drove at breakneck speed and we only had one 10 min loo stop, but it meant that the journey was completed in 6 hours, which was great. 

I’ve been so spoilt this trip with friends driving me round, so my quest on arriving at Chiang Mai bus station was to get to my friend’s house, just outside the city perimeter. So two drivers said no and the third agreed, but his van battery was knackered after such little use over lockdown, so me and a couple of old guys had to give him a push start - what a sight at the bus station! 

Farang

 It’s my last night in Mae Hong Son, and tomorrow it’s the start of my journey heading south. I’m at the night and always love the slight confusion of what to order, hearing them hurriedly speak and you can definitely hear them say ‘farang’, meaning ‘foreigner’ as you approach. 

Then I remove my shoes and sit on the raised pavement by the lake, which is now converted to an outdoor seating strip for all the food stalls. My table is a tiny child’s table with the English and Thai alphabet on it and I am looking over the lake to the beautifully lit nearby temple. 

A real highlight in Thailand is the food and with that comes the adventure of going to the amazing food stalls and hoping that you’ve ordered the right thing! 

Hot and cold

 Before I left, I of course checked regularly to see the temperatures in Thailand and they were consistently 30°C, so I did pack accordingly and hoped that when I was forever moving north away from the humid sweaty heat of fabulous Bangkok, the temperatures would decrease. However they have not and it’s still 32° and I’m in the very north of Thailand in May Hong Son in winter I can’t really get any higher in the mountains and it’s like doing hot yoga by just walking around. 

It’s so hot, I’ve got a stinking cold as it’s been a very long time since I’ve had to sleep with air-conditioning on. Normally I hate it. It’s too too cold and I just have a fan but here Aircon is a necessity and I know it’s winter but it’s still hot hot hot, temperatures are not really decreasing loads at night, just down to 18 so the Aircon has now eventually given me a stinking cold. 

Still it’s going to be shock to the system when I get back home next week and have my first sea swim!!! 

Human zoo

 As refugees to Thailand the Burmese Karen Long Neck have for a long time been exploited by becoming virtual prisoners in camps set up by Thai in Northern Thailand. These are not refuge camps, but tourist destinations where they receive small amounts money for keeping their cultural identity. The men work on near by farms and the women sell Chinese made trinkets and weave all day. They are not allowed Thai status and are stuck being exploited. 

Whilst other tribal cultures are on the decline, money makes them continue their traditions of wearing coils on their necks and legs and the next generation of girls are forced long this route, perhaps with no access to education. 

I was on an organised tour and after visiting here I have read up a lot and will never visit one of the places again. It is a sad and shocking reality of Thailand and so many other countries where slavery and trafficking, especially of girls and women is still very much an everyday occurrence.

The lone tuk tuk driver

 I remember well travelling before the Internet, before everyone booked everything in advance. Then, everything was left to chance. You would turn up at the bus station, get off your bus and be met by a horde of drivers and guesthouse owners. All of them would have signs for their affiliated guest houses and jostle and hustle to get you to stay with them. Getting off my bus last night I was met by the lone tuk tuk driver. No choice, little room for bargaining just met by the determined driver waiting for that next passenger. 

The Long and Winding Road

 One thing I love about travelling is getting on the open road on a bus and exploring different places. Yesterday was an extreme day of  travel. I started off in Chiang Rai and got the bus down to Chang Mai, then picked up a  minivan to take me all the way across the winding roads to Mae Hong Son. It is reported that there are over 1700 curves along the winding road as you go up and down the mountains to climb higher and higher towards the Burmese border. At each toilet stop you disembark from the van and have sea legs from the perpetual swaying of the vehicle. 

Fortunately, the promised nine hour journey only ended up being seven, which was a real treat. When I arrived at Mae Hong Son I headed straight down to the Lakeside and had a fantastic meal and a well-deserved beer, looking over to the beautifully lit temple at the bottom of the mountain. I was last here 20 years ago, so it’s great to be back. It’s still a beautiful laid back city, only enticing travellers willing to endure the journey! 

Monk Barista

 An entrepreneurial temple in Mae Sai has a monk coffee shop, and the barista’s are the monks themselves. It’s a pay as you like establishment on top of the hill by a huge Buddha statue, with great views of the city and the forest. This route through the mountains has been very popular as a night time illegal border crossing. 

It’s interesting to see the monks be more interactive. In a few temples I have seen and participated in Monk Chat sessions, here in Thailand and in Laos. It’s a win win situation to talk to a monk and also they can practise their English! 

Not for sale

 It was a great privilege to be introduced to Kru Nam, the inspiration founder of a shelter in Chiang Saen, giving a safe home and strong foundation to 60 young people who have been saved from a life on the streets, domestic abuse or sex trafficking and she works under the banner that these young people are not for sale. For 25 years Kru Nam has supported and given a voice to the exploited street children and the refugees from Myanmar and made sure that they are given the future that they deserve. She also runs a drop in centre in Chiang Sai, the Northern most town in Thailand, but the border to Myanmar remains closed, so people cross the river or come through the jungle to escape. 

I spent the afternoon supporting them with their social media, teaching some phone camera ticks to ensure they can publicise their jewellery collections in the best light. I also look some portrait shots and shots of the centre. Then we headed to the shelter, where the energy and strength of the children was overwhelming. It was great to see Kru Nam in action, guiding games with the young people, encouraging them to be challenged, work together and to be competitive. What an incredible experience! 

hello big size

I’ve been called a lot of names in my life, but this is my Asian name. Just passing market stalls I’m greeted by “hello big size”. We as westerners are definitely a different build and I certainly am not made for the heat of South East Asia. The reality behind the serene photos is that I’m sweating buckets in the high heat and humidity combo. Thailand is like a huge hot yoga studio and the best I can do is shuffle along! 

I’m in a cat cafe

I’ve heard of them but I’ve never seen one before and it’s so bizarre!!! A cat cafe!!!! So I got my ice latte and sat on a small chair and was soon surrounded by cats. They quickly dispersed when they realised I wasn’t going to feed them, but a couple soon returned, seeking solitude for the small girl who was going around clapping in their faces. I must admit I loved it, it felt so relaxing to be surrounded by cats, who were also lounging around and relaxing.   

Waiting for three more

 I’ve been really spoilt so far, friends have driven me around, so there’s no queues and no waiting. So we headed up to Doi Suthep Temple, on the mountain side overlooking Chiang Rai by shared van and waited until it was completely full until it departed. Got to maximise income at all times, as it’s great to see Thailand fully open now, as the economy took a huge hit during covid as it relies so much on tourism. Now to tempt people back they have extended the tourist visa to 45 days and legalised cannabis! 

Grind the coffee please

 There’s an entrepreneur where ever you look. There are hundreds of food stall owners across Chiang Mai and this evening we went to the newly gentrified canal area.

 The smell of coffee from Slow bar on the way was irresistible and I brought some ground coffee from Laos. Oum, the owner, previously sold coffee from a cart in the town, but now her canal at the back of her house has become a trendy location, she has converted her back yard to a coffee shop. Great to see more opportunities for everyone to make a good living on their doorstep.

Emergency haircut

 Living in the small micro climate in Cornwall, we never experience the extremes of heat. Rarely is there snow and frost and even in the extreme summer heat experienced this year when some of the country was baking in 40 degrees, we were in late 20’s. It’s been quite an adjustment to acclimatise to 33 degrees heat and very high humidity. My Thai friends were really alarmed at seeing sweat pouring off my arms! I was not made for such warm climes, so yesterday I headed to a fab hairdressers in the old town and got a great short Bob haircut. Now I feel cooler, and added an interesting day to the salon, when a large sweaty farang (Thai for foreigner) appeared, motioning with her scissor fingers to cut off loads of hair. 

For the majority off my trip I will be north, eventually heading to Chiang Rai and the Northern Hills of Thailand, so might even need my fleece again - I hope so! 

You can buy ticket tomorrow

 I do love the dreckly approach here. This morning I wanted to buy a bus ticket for two days time, and was told I needed to come back and buy it tomorrow. It makes no sense, it is nonsense, so I politely insisted on buying it today! So now I have the ticket sorted for my onward journey and no understanding of why it was problematic to buy it! 

Table for one

 Now I’m on my solo travels it’s table for one all the way! It does take a bit of adjustment, especially after spending time with such great friends in Bangkok and then travelling with Bea. 

I always take a book to read, but now I have an esim for my travels it’s just as easy to chat on WhatsApp or do some travel research. Technology has changed everything. I remember calling my folks every couple of weeks when I lived in Australia 31 years ago. Then when I did a long stint of travel again in 1997, the internet was not widely used. Now we have everything in the palm of our hand and as I look around there is less chatter, just replaced with solitarily endless scrolling. 

Crikey, three monks in a row

 I can always tell when I’m really settling into travelling when I get my Olympus camera out and get into my travel photography. 

Exploring the ancient ruins of Ayutthaya is fascinating and a latest twist at one of the main ruins is that after it was used in a historical drama, it is now full of tourists dressing up in ancient costumes, having their pictures taken. There’s families, couples and friends all walking round as if it’s 500 years ago! 

There’s one very special place in Ayutthaya, in Wat Marahat, where a Buddha head is engulfed in tree roots. Everyone wants their picture taken there, and we waited patiently for a coach of South Koreans to all be snapped! After our portraits in front of the tree, three monks arrived and sat down to have their selfies taken and of course we couldn’t miss the opportunity to photography them. Not just one monk, but three in a row. 

Friendship is a weird thing

 My friend Match posted about our friendship and I have completely stolen her word “friendship is a weird thing. It can happen in an instant and last a life time”. 

It has been so much fun to spend time with my friends in Bangkok. We have laughed so much and shared so much, catching up since our last reunion 11 years ago. I feel my Mum would be so proud that I keep these wonderful friendships. 

It will feel weird when I embark on my solos travels. I have been with friends constantly since leaving Cornwall last Tuesday, but I love the challenge and the solitude of solo travel as well, so let the adventure begin! 

The Grand Palace is closed

 As part of your travel prep it is always advisable to research the local scams. As a tourist, especially in Asia, you will stand out as a mark however contrasting your tan lines are, illustrating the length of your travels, like the circles on a tree. 

Yesterday the Grand Palace and Wat Pho were closed. The tuk tuk drivers told us so. But they always tell you so, as they want to whizz you off to conspiring gem stores with the offer of awaiting riches and all you have to do is invest in the gems and sell on. 

However today they were telling the truth. Coming to an end of their year long leadership of APEC, the weekend long gathering was commencing in the Thai capital and leaders of the Asian Pacific countries were going to be gathering at the Grand Palace, meeting the King and then going to see the incredible golden reclining Buddha at Wat Pho. A national holiday was given and Bangkok was quiet, locals heading out of town for a long weekend, leaving behind the 30 degree winter heat to the throngs of police lining the streets, preparing for potential street demonstrations. Bangkok was quiet and we swiftly embarked on our new sightseeing plan. 

Be quiet in the temple

I’m in Bangkok with my friends, friends who I have know for 25 years.  Ou lodged with me for a year in 2000 when she was doing her MA at SOAS. Match was my project office in 1997 when I travelled around Northern Thailand for Help Age International and she was also at Warwick in 2005 completing her masters and Bea popped over to London in 2005 on a year sabbatical and was my flat mate for 8 years. Our friendship spans a long time and it’s amazing to be all together again. We last met 11 years ago, on my last trip to Thailand. 

We are quite a formidable bunch, and have just reverted back to a giggly group now on a constant drive to outdo our last group selfie I front of whatever we choose. This resulted in our hysterical squeeze of laughter of finding the best backdrop of a giant wooden temple door with a carved very pale soldier standing guard by the temple. Too much noise for the temple as we were quickly instructed to be quiet, but it was worth it for the great group photo: 

Toast or Duck noodles for breakfast?

 Everywhere seems to have been gentrified, it’s all too standard to pop the words boutique hotel on to the end of your hotel name.  And yes I am staying in a boutique hotel, but questioning the benefits as we don’t even have a kettle in our room. It’s in my favourite area of Banglamphu, near the river and full of temples and great restaurants. We were directed to have breakfast on the canal edge at the restaurant linked to our hotel. Yes the coffee, eggs and toast did look appealing but the bigger draw was the duck noodle restaurant on the other side of the bridge. We ate a really hearty breakfast, including squares of boiled ducks blood and this couldn’t have been a better first breakfast of my trip! 

What a warm welcome

 The reason for coming back to Thailand now is to mark the 25th anniversary of me having worked here and undertaken some amazing project visits with Help Age International. Here I met Match and Bea at the central office in Chiang Mai mid 1997 and with Match embarked on incredible adventures of visiting a lepar colony, hill tribes where they had only ever seen one other white person, and other local projects. 

Apparently I have not lost my enthusiasm or zeal for life! And I am so proud to have these wonderful women as friends, along with Ou, who lodged with me in London whilst she completed her MA at SOAS. Our reunion is going to be fun, as we have not been altogether since my last trip to Thailand 11 years ago. 

It’s always the underwire

 Going through security is always tricky. My camera equipment can sometimes cause an alert, but the biggest issue is always the substantial support of the underwire in my bra that sets off alarms. Had to have one of the special arms up body scan and was then swiftly ushered through to pick up my shoes I’d had to remove and collect my carry on luggage. It’s appears I am no longer a threat to airport security! 

Leaving Cornwall tomorrow

When I lived in London, getting away was a breeze. Book a taxi and then in 40 mins I’ll be at the Heathrow terminal! So now I live 280 miles away, so there’s room for an adventure in between. I’ve almost packed and am now back from the pub. Thank goodness my car has been repaired from my recent crash (first time I’ve ever hit another car in 35 years of driving!). So I’m ready for my early morning swim, work in the morning then drive to Winchester for my stop off adventure. Will I miss the button handbrake of the curtesy car? 

Let the planning for Thailand commence!

 For the first time since lock down I’m planning an overseas adventure. 

Twenty five years ago I gave up my job in a post production company in Soho and took my rucksack to the other side of the world. I went to a friends wedding in Australia and then after three months there I embarked on a six month adventure through South East Asia. Before I left I took my photography portfolio to a few International Charities and arranged to work with Help Age International and Bookaid International to undertake photography and case study collation with local projects along my travels, adding an amazing element, so that I could support their great work and on a personal level really connect on a different level where I was. 

So now it’s time to plan my trip back to Thailand. Plane ticket booked and my old lonely planet guide has been dusted off and the road less travelled itinerary gave me inspiration.