As Moaist strikes loom over the weekend I have luckily managed to change my flight and leave tomorrow for a border town so I can head back to India. Who knows what will happen here, but there are often violent episodes and this country is already fairly unstable, as the constitution still needs to be ratified.
Already people from more rural areas are coming to Kathmandu, so it is best to leave early. Already in Pokhara I experinced a strike and nothing was open and the police and army presence was sizeable.
Thursday 29 April 2010
Wednesday 28 April 2010
The day of complete contrasts
As I walked through the candle lit streets of Kathmandu tonight not even the full moon could light the way. This morning I saw flames in a completely different setting, not helping sight, but flames of funeral pyres along the sacred Bagmarti River at Pashupathinath. Here funerals are conducted for all to see. It was such a utterly strange but equally compelling experience to sit and watch the rituals of this open cremation. The giving of water to the deceased, covering in cloth and powder, the mournful rituals of the close family and then the setting of the body on the logs and starting the fire. It was so weird to watch and I must admit that I couldn't look away.
I then headed to Bodhnath, which has the most incredible stupa in the centre. It is now surrounded by many Tibetan monastaries and devout pilgrims walk clockwise around spinning the prayer wheels. Today was a day of visiting and seeing rituals together with such a strong devout culture.
Tonight I dined with the family of one of the NGO members who I undertook my field trip with. It was so interesting to visit his house, which as always is a simple one room living space for himself, his wife and two daughters. Their generosity was amazing and we even watched some BBC news which was a rare treat - and an even greater treat to hear the Gordon Brown 'bigot' tape, just like a scene from that brilliant political satire show.
I saw a beggar eating from food on the pavement today, which was swarming with flies, I walked past the funeral pyres and felt the flames heat my face, I ate when the wife could only eat when her husband and guest were full, I also did the very Asian thing of being a passanger on a motorbike with both Tej and his four year old daughter and you know what I did next - I stopped off at the bottle shop on my way back and bought the strongest beer I could find! Here ends my day of contrasts in Kathmandu.
I then headed to Bodhnath, which has the most incredible stupa in the centre. It is now surrounded by many Tibetan monastaries and devout pilgrims walk clockwise around spinning the prayer wheels. Today was a day of visiting and seeing rituals together with such a strong devout culture.
Tonight I dined with the family of one of the NGO members who I undertook my field trip with. It was so interesting to visit his house, which as always is a simple one room living space for himself, his wife and two daughters. Their generosity was amazing and we even watched some BBC news which was a rare treat - and an even greater treat to hear the Gordon Brown 'bigot' tape, just like a scene from that brilliant political satire show.
I saw a beggar eating from food on the pavement today, which was swarming with flies, I walked past the funeral pyres and felt the flames heat my face, I ate when the wife could only eat when her husband and guest were full, I also did the very Asian thing of being a passanger on a motorbike with both Tej and his four year old daughter and you know what I did next - I stopped off at the bottle shop on my way back and bought the strongest beer I could find! Here ends my day of contrasts in Kathmandu.
Tuesday 27 April 2010
Off to Chitwan National Park
Another great lesson travelling in Asia is endurance! I Left Pokhara on a hot and uncomfortable local bus travelling
for five and a half hours on an incredible journey past lush rice fields, dusty towns and steep valleys. Venturing there was a risky move as now it is just before monsoon season and the temperature is increasing. Still as always all things are taken into consideration, as it just meant that in the heat of the afternoon we all took a siesta. So three days there were packed with jungle walks, elephant safaris, spotting rhino in the jungle and seeing the elephants at work, transporting grass from inside the jungle.
The second test of endurance came yesterday whilst completing the journey back to Kathmandu. A 164km journey took us 8.5 hours!!!! Granted it was along the spectacular winding road following the river that slices through Nepal, but you then have to then climb up the notorious seven hills to get back into Kathmandu valley. These narrow and steep roads are always littered with accidents and crazy truck drivers
for five and a half hours on an incredible journey past lush rice fields, dusty towns and steep valleys. Venturing there was a risky move as now it is just before monsoon season and the temperature is increasing. Still as always all things are taken into consideration, as it just meant that in the heat of the afternoon we all took a siesta. So three days there were packed with jungle walks, elephant safaris, spotting rhino in the jungle and seeing the elephants at work, transporting grass from inside the jungle.
The second test of endurance came yesterday whilst completing the journey back to Kathmandu. A 164km journey took us 8.5 hours!!!! Granted it was along the spectacular winding road following the river that slices through Nepal, but you then have to then climb up the notorious seven hills to get back into Kathmandu valley. These narrow and steep roads are always littered with accidents and crazy truck drivers
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)