As I walked through the candle lit streets of Kathmandu tonight not even the full moon could light the way. This morning I saw flames in a completely different setting, not helping sight, but flames of funeral pyres along the sacred Bagmarti River at Pashupathinath. Here funerals are conducted for all to see. It was such a utterly strange but equally compelling experience to sit and watch the rituals of this open cremation. The giving of water to the deceased, covering in cloth and powder, the mournful rituals of the close family and then the setting of the body on the logs and starting the fire. It was so weird to watch and I must admit that I couldn't look away.
I then headed to Bodhnath, which has the most incredible stupa in the centre. It is now surrounded by many Tibetan monastaries and devout pilgrims walk clockwise around spinning the prayer wheels. Today was a day of visiting and seeing rituals together with such a strong devout culture.
Tonight I dined with the family of one of the NGO members who I undertook my field trip with. It was so interesting to visit his house, which as always is a simple one room living space for himself, his wife and two daughters. Their generosity was amazing and we even watched some BBC news which was a rare treat - and an even greater treat to hear the Gordon Brown 'bigot' tape, just like a scene from that brilliant political satire show.
I saw a beggar eating from food on the pavement today, which was swarming with flies, I walked past the funeral pyres and felt the flames heat my face, I ate when the wife could only eat when her husband and guest were full, I also did the very Asian thing of being a passanger on a motorbike with both Tej and his four year old daughter and you know what I did next - I stopped off at the bottle shop on my way back and bought the strongest beer I could find! Here ends my day of contrasts in Kathmandu.
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